Dating - Dating Services - Russian Brides

What is the History of Kiev?

Kyiv (known also as Kiev), is a beautiful and romantic location to spend time with the girls of your choice. Kiev is a scenic city with almost 3 million people and it is situated by the Dnipro River. Kiev is the capital of Ukraine and most of your chosen ladies will enjoy showing you around. Ancient Kievan Rus, was historically the centre of trade routes between the Baltic and the Mediterranean Sea, which reached its finest period of ascendancy during the 11th and 12th centuries. The Kyiv city and the power of Kievan Rus were destroyed in 1240 by Mongol invaders and the lands of Kievan Rus were divided into principalities located to the west and north: Galicia, Volynia, Muscovy and later, Poland, Lithuania, and Russia. Kiev was once a powerful force on the European scene. The fate of the Ukraine in modern times has been decided in far-away capitals. Modern Ukrainian history, resultantly, has been defined by occupation by foreigners.

Kyiv suffered badly during World War II, leaving many widowed women. Many irreplaceable architectural and aesthetic art treasures were totally destroyed. Previously in the 1930's the Russian authorities systematically destroyed numerous churches. Restoration has been extensive which has revived much of Kiev's historic city. Kiev hit the main headlines in April 1986, when the nuclear reactor at Chernobyl exploded, affecting the lives of many young girls, boys, men and women. Scientists generally agree that it is now safe from radiation effects (www.fco.gov.uk).

Despite political turmoil, repressions, suffering, and the terrible ecological disasters, the spirit of Ukraine's girls and boys, men and women, and their national identity are very strong. On August 24, 1991, after the failed coup in Moscow, Ukraine proclaimed independence. As of 1994, Ukraine has diplomatic relations with at least 135 countries and almost 60 diplomatic missions have been established in Kyiv. News correspondents, business representatives, and students from all over the world reside in Kyiv. The flow of foreign tourists and official delegations is heavy all year round. The resident American community consists of Embassy personnel, correspondents, business representatives, clergy, students and professors.

The remaining art and architecture of Kyiv are amongst the world treasures. With your chosen women, you may like to visit the Cathedral of St. Sophia, which has outstanding mosaics and frescoes dating back to the 11th century. This beautiful cathedral is where the princes of Kyiv were crowned in the years of Kiev's grandeur. Overlooking the old section of Kyiv, Podol, stands the Ukrainian Baroque church of St. Andrew, much loved by Ukrainians. The Percherska Lavra, the Monastery of the Caves, a short trolley ride from the centre of town, has two 11th-century cathedrals on its grounds, in addition to its world-famous catacombs, bell tower, and museum collections. Close to the centre of town stands the Golden Gate, a structure which dates back to 1037. The recently reconstructed remains of the former fortified wall of the city defined the limits of the city in centuries past. Several blocks away, stands the magnificent 19th-century Cathedral of St. Volodymyr. Ask your chosen girls to show you around these beautiful locations, it is a great and interesting way to spend time with your date and establish if you would like her to be your bride.

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Where can I take my girl, or where can she take me?

Ukrainians have made a spirited effort to preserve their cultural traditions and customs. There are many things to see and places to visit. We have listed many of them below!

ART GALLERIES
Art Salon	Andriyivsky Uzviz 3 (Tel: 416-1237). Open: Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, lunch break 2-3pm.
Khudozhniy Salon	Vul. Chervonoarmiyska 47 (Tel: 227-3730). Open: Tues-Sat 9am-6pm, lunch break 2-3pm.
Khudozhniy Salon	Vul. Entuziastiv 17. (Tel: 555-3994). Open: Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, lunch break 2-3 pm.
Tsentralny Khudozhniy Salon	Vul. Khmelnytskoho 27. (Tel: 224-1660). Open Mon-Fri 10 am to 7 pm; Sat 10 am to 6 pm, lunch break 2-3pm.
Gallery at Taras Shevshenko- Museum	12 Taras Shevchenko Blvd. Open Tues-Sat. 10 A.M.-5:00 P.M. Good colection of contemporary artists.

THEATERS AND CONCERT HALLS

Concert Hall "Ukrainian Palace"	Vul. Chervonoarmiyska 23 (Tel: 268-1584)
Conservatory	Vul. Karla Marxa 1/3.
House of Organ and Chamber Music	Vul. Chervonoarmiyska 77. (Tel: 268-5678)
Ivan Franko Ukrainian Drama Theater	Ploshcha Franka 3. (Tel: 229-5991) Performances in this theater are mainly works by popular Ukrainian writers and playwrights such as Taras Shevchenko, Ivan Franko, I. Karpenko-Kariy.
Lesia Ukrainka Russian Drama Theater	Vul. Bohdana Khmelnytskoho 5. (Tel: 224-9063/4223)
Philharmonic Society	Vul. Volodymyrska Uzviz 2.
Puppet Theater	Vul. Shota Rustaveli 13. (Tel: 220-9065). Going to the puppet theater is not only fun for the children, but entertaining for adult as well.
Sports Palace	Sportyvna Ploshcha 1.(Tel: 221-5793)
Taras Shevchenko National Opera and Ballet Theatre	Vul. Volodymyrska 50. (Tel: 224-7165, 229-1169). The National Opera of Ukraine was built in 1919 and has since been beautifully restored. During the opera season many classics are performed - from the traditional Ukrainian opera "Taras Bulba" to Verdi's "La Traviata". The National Opera is home to a very good opera company, a ballet company of considerable talent, and expansive repertoire. Prices average 250,000 per ticket, so it's well worth your time.

VISTIT MUSEUMS, RECREATION SITES, MONASTERIES WITH YOUR CHOSEN GIRLS

Ukrainian contemporary art includes painting and sculpture in a wide range of experimental and traditional styles. Icons and folk art are displayed in museums purchased in galleries and shops. There are several art museums with collections of Ukrainian and European art. There are also museums with good collections of archaeology, geology, botany, zoology and aerospace.

CENTRAL BOTANICAL GARDEN

Timiryazevska 1. (Tel: 295-4527). Walk with your date. Hours: 10am-8pm Mon-Sun. Founded in 1936 the gardens offer a glimpse of a collection comprising nearly 13,000 varieties of trees, bushes, and grass from five different continents. The 11th century Vydubychi monastery is still open to the public on the garden's grounds.

CENTRAL PARK

Volodymyrska Uzviz 2. (Tel: 228-3092). Visit this park with your women. It stretches throughout the centre of the city and houses a number of parks and historical complexes including the Mariyinsky Palace, Askold Grave, and the monument to Prince Volodymyr. A breathtaking view of the Dnipro River can be seen from the park's terraces.

HYDROPARK

Peredimska Sloboda 10. (Tel: 517-1492). Over 900 acres stretch along this riverside park with sandy beaches along the Dnipro River banks. You and your girl can enjoy swimming, volleyball, tennis, badminton, sun bathing, or sailing on a rental boat. There is an open-air theater, coffee shop, restaurant, and beer bar. Also, there is no entrance fee.

MUSEUM OF UKRAINIAN FINE ARTS

Vul. Hrushevskoho 6. (Tel: 228-6429). Hours: 10am-5pm, closed Friday. Spend an afternoon dating your lady discovering Ukrainian folklore and tradition through art. One can get a glimpse of a valuable collection of ancient Ukrainian icons, paintings, and sculpture.

PECHERSKA LAVRA MONASTERY AND CATACOMBS

Vul. Sichnevoho Povstannya 21. (Tel: 290-7349). Hours: 10am-6pm, closed Tue. Established in 1051, this monastery is one of the oldest and most interesting in Kyiv. On the premises you and your date can visit the caves where monks had been living and many other churches and museums. The miniatures museum and the Scythian gold collection are fascinating sights while you are building your relationships. For a beautiful view of the city climb up the stairs of the tallest belfry in Ukraine (315 ft.), and show your girls that you are fitter than you look

REPUBLICAN CENTER OF EXHIBITIONS AND FAIRS

Prospekt Akademika Hlushkova 1. (Tel: 261-7365). Hours: 10am-6pm, break 1-2pm, closed Sunday and Monday. Located in a big cosy park the centre is the main site for major exhibitions and fairs taking place in Kyiv. The lovely tree covered grounds is a nice place to take a romantic stroll and chat with your date especially in summer when a variety of flowers are in bloom.

REPUBLICAN STADIUM

Vul. Chervonoarmiyska 55. (Tel: 221-5775). With a capacity of 100,000, this stadium is the largest in Ukraine, which includes a soccer field, running tracks, indoor stadium, gymnasium, an artificial surface ski-jump, swimming pool, tennis courts, and a sauna.

ST. SOPHIA CATHEDRAL

Vul. Volodymyrska 24. (Tel: 228-6152). The museum has been closed for one year because of political problems. To enter museum, you must go with a tour guide. It was built by Prince Yaroslav the Wise in 1037. This church was established to glorify the wisdom of Christianity. One of the most interesting sights is the collection of romantic frescoes and mosaics inside the cathedral.

UKRAINIAN MUSEUM OF FOLK ARCHITECTURE AND PEASANT HOMES

Pyrohovo Village. (Tel: 266-2416). Open daily 10am-5pm; closed Wed. Entrance fee $1.00; $10.00 per person for English-speaking guide. Located in the outskirts of Kyiv, this open air museum takes you through Ukraine's history as you walk through the original homes of the past which have been moved here from all corners of Ukraine and restored. Traditional Ukrainian costume and ceramics are on exhibit.

THE ZOO

Prospect Peremohy 32. (Tel: 274-6054). Hours: 9am-6pm, closed Monday. You can easily spend a day at the zoo with one of your girls. Founded in 1908, Kiev's zoo is one of the largest in Eastern Europe. One can see over 3,500 specimens of animals and birds here. Amusement park and snack-bar.

Your chosen girls would all like to be taken to the theatre or the opera and ballet. Theatre enthusiasts will find a great deal of choice to share endless time with your lady. Most performances are in Ukrainian or Russian but many of the girls will be able to translate the gist of the plot, if not take your interpreter on your date with you. The recently renovated Kyiv Opera House presents very good opera as well as a broad repertoire of ballets. The Kyiv Young Theatre is very popular with girls and it stages innovative plays in Ukrainian or Russian. The Ivan Franko Theatre is the centre of Ukrainian drama, comedy, and musicals and many of the girls in Ukraine aspire to perform there. This repertoire has just opened its 75th season that includes brilliant versions of Aeneid and Teve Tevel, the original and famous version of the Fiddler on the Roof.

The modern centres with surviving parts of the old city are on the hilly west, or right bank, of the Dnipro River. The main street, Khreshchatik, runs between two steep hills, and you will be astounded when you see all the beautiful girls going about their work in the many interesting places. About half a kilometre west, is vulytsya Volodymyrska, the main street of the Old Kyiv area (Staryj Kyiv) and it is a lovely place to walk with your date. From the north end of Khreshchatik, vulytsya Hrushevskoho rises southeast along a ridge always to the Caves Monastery at Perchersk. Woodlands and parklands cover most of the steep right-bank slopes. The capital's newest areas stretch out on the flat left bank which is characterized by large housing developments, shops, and industrialized neighbourhoods.

Many Ukrainian girls like shopping and they are adept embroidery, and handicrafts. These, including pottery are available throughout the city, particularly in shops on Andrievsky Uzviz, at Percherska Lavra, and St. Sophia's church. Quality varies from shop to shop. Many stores stock Western food, alcoholic beverages, clothing, and electrical appliances. Most prices, in hard-currency stores, are higher than those in the West, and availability of stock is unpredictable.

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What hotels are in Kiev?

President Hotel "Kyivsky".

Reception: 220-4144, 227-9554.
Built in 1980, this 735-room hotel is one of the most comfortable and most expensive hotels in the city. There are three restaurants, Congress hall, Fitness Centre, transportation services, three hard currency bars, a hard currency casino, a cafe, hairdresser, sauna etc.
www.president-hotel.kiev.ua

Hotel Rus

Hospitalna 4. Reception: 380(44) 294-30-20. Email: post@hotelrus.kiev.ua. This hotel was built in 1979 is decorated with mosaics and decorative sculpture. Breakfast buffet is included. Rooms cost start from approximately $117. Reservations are available from the Hotel's website. Hotel has 385 rooms, 2 restaurants, 2 banquet halls, 3 bars, and Conference hall.
www.dnipro.com.ua

Hotel Dnipro

Vul. Khreshchatyk 1/2. Reception: 229-8287. This three star 180-room hotel is conveniently located in the heart of the city. It is a popular hotel where you may relax to a variety of complimentary classical music in the bar area, or with the beautiful girls topless dancing in the upstairs bar. Breakfast included. Room reservations-$5.
www.dnipro.com.ua

Hotel Khreshchatyk

Vul. Khreshchatyk 14. Reception: 229-7193. Hotel Khreshchatyk is located in the centre of the town and it offers comfortable rooms. The hotel offers a bar, two restaurants, a sauna, as well as the airline offices for LOT (Polish) and Lufthansa, CSA (Czech), Air France and Finnair.

Hotel Kiev

Hrushevskoho 26/1. Reception: 293-0155. Hotel Kiev is situated in the historical district, Pechersk, not far from the Ukrainian Parliament. It has 327 rooms. Bar large restaurant, banquet halls, and shops.

Hotel Lybid

Ploshcha Peremohy 3. Reception: 221-7522, 274-0063. This 17-story hotel built in 1970 numbers 280 rooms. There are three restaurants in the hotel, bars, a dance club and an American sports bar, Playoffs International, and a sporting goods store, Mizuno. The hotel is not far from the centre of the city and close to the Central railway station.

Hotel Ukraina

Reception: 229 - 2807.

Hotel Salyut

Reception: 290 - 6130.

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What useful phone numbers should I keep a record of?

Airport Information:

Boryspil Airport	296-7243; 296-7609; 225-2252
Zhuliany Airport	271-2633; 276-2034

Other Phone Numbers:

Air Tickets With Delivery	056
Train Tickets With Delivery	050
Train Schedule Information	005
Central Railway Station	223-1111

Telephone System

The Ukrainian telephone system is extremely archaic and at times very difficult to deal with. Do not be surprised if the phones do not work or if they require frequent re-dialling. It may be easier to purchase a Ukrainian sim card for your mobile phone, if you are planning on a long trip or frequent trips. If you use your UK mobile it will be expensive. Don't allow your date to use your mobile phone.

Telephone - 24-hour service. Rate for 1 minute: Western Europe - US$1.00, the U.S.A. - US$2.50 (payable in Hryvnias). You might need operator assistance to make a call outside of Kyiv. Foreign language speaking operators can be reached at the following numbers:

French	8-191
English	8-192
German	8-193
Ukrainian/Russian	8-194
Spanish	8-195

*NOTE: To place a direct long-distance (outside Kyiv), dial (8), wait for the dial tone, then dial the rest of the number. To make an international call dial (8), wait for the tone, then 10 followed by the country code, city code and number. For the U.S. dial 8+10+(country code=1)+(area code)+ #.

ATT Operator: dial 8-100-11
MCI Operator: dial 8-100-13

PUBLIC PHONE BOOTHS - Placing a call through a telephone booth is free. It is not surprising to find that some telephones do not work at all. Poor connections are frequent as well as disconnections from the party with whom you are talking. Just take a breath and dial again.

Fire	01
Police	02
Emergency aid/Ambulance service	03

Ukraine Country Code	380
Kyiv area code	44
Moscow area code	095
Information about hospitalized patients	003
Directory Assistance	09
Weather forecast	001
Time	060
Taxi service	058

Train schedule info	005
Train Tickets bureau	050
Air service agency	056
Airline tickets bureau	062
Bus station	265-0430
Borispil Airport	295-6701
Zhuliany Airport	272-1201
Lost and Found	229-7844
River Port	416-1268
CIS telephone operator/Inter-city calls	071
Outside CIS operator	072, 078
Outside CIS operator for diplomats	224-3937

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Can you provide information about banking?

Currency Exchange

Exchange points are located all over the city, in the markets, in the import stores. Usually the signs are in Cyrillic and English. (Obmin Valut or Currency Exchange). You can convert dollars to Koupons easily, but the U.S. bills will be scrutinized for date, rips, etc. and often will not be accepted...so have some "back-up" bills just in case!

Here is a list of some Ukrainian banks and foreign representatives.

AVAL	9 Leskova st.,	tel: 294 9691, fax: 295 3231	Processing Visa cards
	51/1 Vyshgorodska st.	tel: 430 4115, fax: 430 8012
	7 Dniprovska Naberezhna st.	tel: 550 2310, fax: 553 7521
Banker's House	36a Yaroslaviv Val st.	tel: 212 1472
Banque Nationale de Paris	9a Mala Zhytomyrska st.	tel: 228 0082	Ukrainian Representative
Berliner Bank AG	#51, 9/2 Chervonoarmiyska st.	tel: 220 8302	Ukrainian Representative
Commerzbank AG	34 Pushkinska st.	tel: 224 0393	Ukrainian Representative
Credit Lyonnais Ukraine	2 Khreschatyk st.	tel: 229 5400	Ukrainian Representative
DENDI	48 Chervonoarmiyska st.	tel: 227 3204
	35 Chervonoarmiyska st.	tel: 227 4194
	12 Konstantynivska st.	tel: 416 0519
	3b B. Khmelnytskoho st.	tel: 228 6595
Deuche Bank AG	26 Shovkovychna st.	tel: 293 1298	Ukrainian Representative
Drezdner Bank	12 Hospitalna st.	tel: 228 0082	Ukrainian Representative
ENERGOBANK	9/9 Lyuteranska st.,	tel: 221 4968, fax: 228 3954
European Bank for Reconstruction and Development	5 Lypska st., Hotel National, #507, 4th floor	>tel: 291 8845, 291 8977; fax: 291 6246	Ukrainian Representative
First Ukrainian International Bank	8 Prorizna st.	tel: 224 2187	Cashing Visa, American Express cards, Travellers Cheques
GRADOBANK	7 Kudriavskiy Uzviz	tel: 212 1221
INCO	10/2 Mechnikova st.	tel: 290 7130, 294 9219, 432 4566; fax: 227 1191, 294 8790	Visa cards, personal cheques
National Bank of Ukraine	9 Instytutska st.	tel: 293 5973
Prominvestbank	12 T. Shevchenka prov.	tel: 226 2032
	64 Balzaka st.	tel: 530 2549
	29a Chervonoarmiyska st.	tel: 5594840
	28 Perova blvd.	tel: 514 3683, fax: 514 4196
Savings Bank of Ukraine	7 Nauky pros.	tel: 265 3140
State Export-Import Bank of Ukraine	8 Khreschatyk st.	tel: 226 2745, fax: 228 7475
UKRAINE	10 M. Rylskoho prov.	tel: 244 1506

Cashing Personal or Government Check
AGROPROMBANK "UKRAINA"	Institutska 12. Room 2. Tel: 293-2832; 293-6941. Hours: 9:30 - 12:30 Commission: 5.0%
"BROCKBUSINESSBANK"	Shosta Rustaveli 3. Tel: 227-6573 Hours: 9:30 - 12:30 Commission: 5.0%

Electronic Banking Transfers
"AGIO"	Leskova 9. Tel: 294 - 8219 Hours: 9:30 - 12:30 Commission: 2.5%

Cashing Travellers Checks
AGROPROMBANK "UKRAINA"	Commission: 3.0%

Take your check to the bank, along with identification (your passport is best), and ask your date or interpreter to help you complete the appropriate documentation. You may pick up the money after the check has cleared, which normally takes two or more weeks for Government checks, and three or more weeks for personal checks. The money can be paid out in a variety of currencies, including U.S. dollars and Ukrainian coupons. U.S. bills older than 1985, or bills that are worn or with small tears are usually not accepted throughout the city. Traveller's checks and currency can be cashed and exchanged into U.S. dollars or karbovantsi at major hotels including the following: INTOURIST, LYBID, DNIPRO, and RUS. Further information and a full listing of other locations, telephone numbers and banking hours can be found at the American Citizen Services section.

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What church services are held?

Church Services in Kiev

Religious Services - Many girls in Kiev are religious. Services are held regularly in the churches that have always been open in Kyiv. The Ukrainian Otocephalies Orthodox Church and the Ukrainian Catholic Church hold regular services in Kyiv. Catholics of the Byzantine rite hold Divine Liturgy at two outdoor locations in the city. Roman Catholic Mass is celebrated in Ukrainian, Russian, Polish and English in two churches downtown. The Baptist community and a synagogue in the Podil neighbourhood also hold religious services.

Ukrainian Orthodox	Church of St. Nicholas Pritisk - (In Podil), Vul. Georgi Liver and Vul. Khoryv 5-a. Divine liturgy - Sunday 10:00 am
	St. Nicholas Naberezhny Church - Corner of Vul. Pochaininska and Vul. Grigori Skovoroda (Tel: 416-4228). Divine liturgy - Sunday 10:00 am
	St. Vladimir's Cathedral - (between Vul. Leontovich and Vul. Ivan Franko.), Blvd. Tarasa Shevchenka (Tel: 225-0362) Divine liturgy - Sunday 10:00 am
	Vydubychi Monastery (St. Michael's Cathedral) - South of Paton Bridge along Dnipro River on the Botanical Garden grounds. Divine liturgy - Sunday 10:00 am
Catholic	St. Alexander's - (The church with the scaffolding near the Ukraine House.), Vul. Kostel'na 17. English - 6:00 pm Sunday Polish - 8:00 am, 12:00 noon Ukrainian - 9:30 am, 7:00 pm Russian - 5:00 pm
Catholic	St. Nicholas - (Sunday) Vul. Chervonoarmiyska 77. (Tel: 269-5678) Ukrainian - 9:00 am, 3:00

Central Post Office - Vul. Khreshchatyk 22, tel: 065

International Express Mail (IEM)
This service enables mail to be delivered to 36 countries within 3-4 days. Parcels and printed matter are also accepted. tel: 228-1603

Telex - The domestic and international electronic communication office works every day 9am - 6pm.

Telefax (facsimile service) - For information dial 228-1291

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What department stores are in Kiev?

DEPARTMENT STORES
Brooklyn-Kiev	Vul. Khreshchatyk 15, Passazh. (Tel: 229-4274). Hours: 10am-9pm, break 1-2pm. Hard currency store offering fashionable clothing and accessories.
Budynok Odyahu (House of Clothing)	Vul. Artema at Lvivska Ploshcha. Hours: 9am-8pm, closed Sunday. Local products.
Dim Torgivliy	House of Trade at Lvovska Ploshcha (the modern-looking glass building). Good selection of foreign appliances on the top floor, reasonable selection of Ukrainian-made clothing.
Slovene Mall	On Kontraktova Square in Podil. This is the closest thing you'll find in Kyiv to a western-style mall. There are several different types of stores ranging from groceries to shoes.
Tsum Department Store	Vul. Khmelnytskoho 2 (on the corner of Vul. Khreshchatyk and Vul. Khmelnytskoho). (Tel: 224-9505). Hours: 9am-8pm, closed Sunday. Local products. Great fun to explore in this store
Ukrayina Department Store	Ploshcha Peremohy. (Tel: 274-6017). Hours: 9am-8pm, closed Sunday. A local department store where Kievans shop for consumer goods. Good selections of party goods, favors for kids
Argo Passazh	Vul. Khreshchatyk 15. (Tel: 229-5761); a wide choice of denim wear.
Brooklyn-Kiev	Vul. Khreshchatyk 15. (Tel: 229-4274); fashionable clothing and accessories.

ELECTRONICS
Computerland	Vul. Menzhinskoho. North of Victory Square (Ploshcha Peremohy). Computers, parts, etc.
Music Store	Vul. Khreshchatyk. Next door to main Post Office on Independence Square. Instruments, sheet music, metronomes, etc.

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Where can I get my groceries?

GASTRONOM/GROCERY STORES

7-24 Store	Behind Besarabska Market on Baseynaya. As per the name, open seven days a week, 24 hours a day. Snack food, beer.
Emelia	German "grocery" store, on Vul. Baseynaya, just south of intersection with Vul. Kubisheva, on west side. Some canned goods, booze, furniture, etc.
Golden Gate Store	Fondly called "the Shop Rite" store, this is found on the small side street across from the main gate of the Golden Gate and it carries a variety of Shop Rite brand items, usually a ggod source for cereals, milk, juice, wine, beer.
Iranian Store	Vul. Chervonoarmiyska, on east side just south of the Ukrainian Souvenir Store. Wide variety of manufactured goods and foodstuffs produced in Iran.
Italian Grocery Store	Kontraktova Square, southeast corner, kitty corner from Hostinniy Dvir. Offers assortment of Italian baking goods.
Kviti Ukraini	Vul. Artema, next to the Croatian Embassy (second floor) between Hoholivska and Nekrasovska. Mostly Israeli products, including turkey franks, cheese, and dressings.
L.A. Express	Vul. Dmitrova, east off Vul. Chervonoarmiyska, on south side about 3/4 down the block. Corner grocery store atmosphere. Reasonable prices.
La Fourchette	Several blocks north of the Crimean Wine Store on Naberezhnoye Shosse. Grocery store with British products such as coffee, candy, and cookies.
Lyudmila Grocery Store	On Saksaganskoho, north side, just around the corner from the intersection with Vul. Chervonoarmiyska.
Lyudmila Grocery Store	On Shevchenko Pereulok or Vul. Sofiskaya, south side, near Maydan Nezalezhnosti. All imported Italian products, shoelaces, q-tips, etc. One of the closest shops resembling a western supermarket in town, including groceries, deli, beauty and medical supplies, hardware section, etc. Run the same people who run the Diplomat grocery store. Dollar prices.
Slavuta Market	Vul. Gorkoho, south of Tolstoho. Inside Slavuta restaurant. Canned goods, caviar, crab, etc.
Supermarket	Vul. Parkhomenko, near Spanish Embassy. Good selection of meats, cheese, candy, and alcoholic beverages.
Tesco	Grocery store of Tesco products in the basement of a building on the east side of an unnamed street (parallel to Karla Marksa, off of Zankovetska - right around the corner from the Parrot Pool Hall, going towards Ivana Frankivsk Park). Selection of Tesco products as well as the most inexpensive dry dog food our survey specialists can determine.
Arc de Triomphe	Aka "the French Store", located at the bottom of Gorky Street, just north of Dzerzhinskiy Square on east side of street. Great cheeses, french wines, junk food, frozen food, wet and dry dog food.
Canadian Store	At the top (northeast end) of Pereulok Krylova, parallel to Melnikova. Meats, candy, booze, toilet paper, frozen vegetables. Reasonable dollar prices.
Della Vita	On Prospekt Peremohy, in the first floor of the Medical University (beyond the Zoo). Good selection of foreign products.
Diplomat	On Chervonoarmiyska opposite Maculan complex, another dollar store with assorted Italian goods, including frozen calamari and shrimp.
Diplomatic Store	Vul. Ivana Franka 24A. Hard currency store that carries a variety of foodstuffs.
German Dollar Store	(Duty-free) west of the city. Drive out Borchahovskaya, turn right on Harmatnaya (right after you drive over industrialnaya), then take your first real right turn (on a street). The store will be at the end of that street on the left, in a small garage-like building between and behind two apartment buildings at the end of the street to your left.
Grocery Store	On Chkalova, west side, north of construction area near the German Embassy. Limited assortment of western products, including cream cheese. Dollars.
Jindo	Vul. Khreshchatyk 1/2. (Tel: 229-8741); fur and leather goods.
Kashtan	Blvd. Lesya Ukrayinka 24/26. (Tel: 295-6127) A wide variety of imported goods: food, clothing, footwear, souvenirs, audio/video equipment; prices are slightly higher than in other similar shops.
Kashtan	Blvd. Tarasa Shevchenka 1. (Tel: 224-7053). Hours: 10am-7pm, closed Sunday and Monday. Hard currency store that carries western foodstuffs, alcohol, some consumer goods, and souvenirs.
King Store	On the north side of the Besarabska building, facing the side street (entrance from outside). Primarily Arab groceries and products.
Mekos Mini Market	Vul. Artema 22; (also a store on Karla Marksa, next to the Seagrams Store.) Diapers, cereals, frozen meat, canned goods, candy, feta cheese.
Mizuno	Ploshcha Peremohy, Lybid Hotel. (Tel: 269-1995). Athletic shoes and sportswear from Japan.
Mria Grocery Store	Vul. Artema 16. On the corner of Vul. Artema and Vul. Observatorna. Good selection of German products.
Nika (the "Swiss Store")	Blvd. Tarasa Shevchenka 2. (Tel: 225-0271). Hours: Mon-Thur 10am-8pm, Fri-Sat 10am-9pm, Sunday 10am-7pm. Large, clean hard currency store that carries imported food, alcohol, fresh fruits and vegetables and some paper products. Other small shops in this complex sell leather goods, watches, perfume, office equipment, jewelry, and electrical appliances.
Passage Grocery	Right next to the Apollo in the Passazh, has a nice selection of foreign products.
Ricco	On the north end of Independence Square; clothing and accessories, at expensive dollar prices.
Supermarket	On Blvd. Lesya Ukrayinka, about a 1/4 kilometer north of Kashtan, on the same side of the street. Appears to be modern and well-stocked.
Suvorova Shopping Centre	Reportedly two good hard currency shops on Suvorova, near the

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What is the geography and climate like in Kiev?

Ukraine's area is 233,088 square miles (603,700 sq. km). It's slightly larger than France. Ukraine is mainly a vast plain with no natural boundaries except the Carpathian Mountains in the southwest and the Black Sea in the south. The Dnipro River with its many tributaries unifies central Ukraine economically, connecting the Baltic coast countries with the Black Sea and the Mediterranean Sea. The mouth of the Danube River provides an outlet for Ukrainian trade with the Balkans, Austria, and Germany.

Ukraine has a complex geology with a rich variety of scenery and impressive contrasts in topography. Central and southern Ukraine is primarily steppe (prairie), with fertile black soil exceptionally well-suited for grain farming. In the east is the industrial heartland containing large reserves of mineral deposits known as the Greater Donbas or Donetsk Basin.

Northern and western Ukraine are hilly, forested areas with many picturesque mountain resorts. Enhancing the topography of Ukraine are two mountain ranges, the Carpathian on its western border where winter sports are very popular; and the Crimean range, which divides the Crimean peninsular, creating a semitropical area on its southernmost tip. The Crimea is a favourite destination not only for Ukrainian tourists, but also for citizens of other states of the former Soviet Union, as well as the eastern and the Western Europe.

CLIMATE - The climate in Ukraine is similar to the wheat-producing regions of Canada and is characterized by abundant precipitation and cloudy skies, especially in fall and winter. The mean temperature in summer is 67oF (19oC) and in winter 21oF (-6oC). Although the summers tend to be short, the temperature can rise into the 90's making it uncomfortable, since most buildings have no central cooling systems. The winters are long and cold, with cloudy skies a norm.

A list of Web pages providing weather forecasts for Ukraine can be found at "Global Ukraine'.

POPULATION

The population of Ukraine is approximately 52 million, of which 73% is Ukrainian and 22% Russian. The remaining population is made up of many minorities, the largest of which is Jewish (1.35%), followed by Byelorussians, Moldovans, Poles, Armenians, Greeks, Bulgarians, and others. Ukrainian population is only 64% urban.

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What type of political system does Ukraine have?

UKRAINIAN POLITICAL SYSTEM

The Ukrainian Political system has a popularly-elected President, a 450-person single chamber national parliament (Verkhovna Rada), and a Prime Minister, nominated by the President subject to approval by the Rada. The new post-Soviet Constitution was adopted by Verkhovna Rada on June 28, 1996.

PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS

Politically, Ukraine has made tremendous strides toward establishing a stable, tolerant and open democratic society in its 3 years of independence. Ukraine achieved independent statehood when its citizens approved the December 1, 2024 independence referendum and the Soviet Union ceased to exist on December 31, 1991.

The years since have been difficult for Ukraine. As the country begins its fourth year much remains to be done to solidify democratic reforms and to create a functioning market economy. After centuries of Soviet and Tsarist repression, Ukraine today has a largely free press, freedom of religion, and elections that recently led to the first peaceful, democratic change of leaders in Ukrainian history. While Ukrainians today are freer than they have ever been, the public is impatient for a visible improvement in the standard of living.

Ukraine held its first presidential elections as an independent country in June and July 1994. In those elections, former Prime Minister Leonid Kuchma defeated Ukraine's first president, Leonid Kravchuk. The democratic transfer of power that followed was the first in Ukraine's history and a crucial milestone for the entire region. Among the key issues facing President Kuchma are the rapid implementation of crucial economic reforms, the resolution of disputes over the status of Crimea and the Russian naval bases there, language and cultural issues related to Ukraine's large (approx. 25 percent) ethnic Russian minority, relations with Moscow in general, including both economic and political concerns, and relations with the West.

Elections to Ukraine's unicameral, 450-seat Parliament (the Supreme Council, or Verkhovna Rada) were held in March 1994. A series of runoff and second-round elections followed throughout the course of the year. Socialist Party leader Oleksandr Moroz was elected Chairman of the Parliament on the basis of a strong showing by leftist parties. The Socialists, Communists, and Agrarians collectively received about a third of the seats in the Rada, making their faction the largest single bloc and giving them substantial operational control. Second round elections later in the year decreased this proportion somewhat, as newly elected deputies tended to align themselves more toward the center. Nationalist parties and factions now have the support of about 20 percent of the deputies, with about half the Parliament either non-aligned or grouped in centrist factions.

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Where can I find out more information?

ARTS, SCIENCE AND EDUCATION

Ukrainians have made a spirited effort to preserve their cultural traditions and customs. There are several outdoor museum villages displaying buildings, crafts, and living conditions of the last century. Folk dancing and music festivals are often held with traditional, regional music and costumes.

The theatre scene is lively. Performances are usually in Ukrainian or Russian. The Kyiv Opera House is home to a very good opera company and a ballet company of considerable talent and expansive repertoire. Government subsidies make opera and theatre tickets inexpensive.

The Kyiv Philharmonic concert hall, a 19th century church with a fine organ, and the opera have a scheduled program of concerts, including concerts by the Odessa Philharmonic Orchestra.

Ukrainian contemporary art includes painting and sculpture in a wide range of experimental and traditional styles. Icons and folk art are displayed in museums, and contemporary versions are skilfully done and can be purchased in galleries and shops. There are several art museums with collections of Ukrainian and European art. There are house museums in Kyiv as well as a museum of the history of Kyiv. The former Lenin Museum, now called The Ukrainian National House, uses its exhibition space to display numerous small exhibits of current Ukrainian art. In addition, there are museums with good collections of archaeology, geology, botany, zoology, and aerospace.

Educational policy favours the study of science and technology. At present, education is compulsory for ages 7-16. University-level education is open to anyone who can pass an admission test.

Kyiv is rich in universities and institutes of higher learning. Chief among the universities is Taras Schevchenko. Higher levels of technology are taught at Kyiv Polytechnic Institute. Mohylo Academy is a private liberal arts university recently chartered on the site of Ukraine's first university founded in the 17th century. Among the new facilities is a School of Law with courses that are taught both in Ukrainian and English. There are many Americans at the graduate student level conducting research in Ukraine using grants administered by the International Research and Exchange Board (IREX) program. American professors conduct courses at universities in American literature and other subjects under the Fulbright program. Other American students in Ukraine pursue academic work under the auspices of other foundations and privately funded programs.

COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY

Once called the "Breadbasket of Europe," Ukraine is rich in natural resources. This includes excellent agricultural land and a substantial industrial base consisting of coal and mineral resources, and aerospace and chemical industries. Despite this wealth of resources, the Ukrainian economy has suffered badly since the nation's independence in 1991. All sectors of industry have experienced major production declines. Despite fuel shortages and shortages of fertilizers and pesticides, the 1993 harvest was significantly better than the previous few years, but a hard winter and severe droughts have cut the harvest for 1994 by about 20 percent. Fuel supplies continue to be limited.

Small-scale privatization has begun in several cities, including Lviv, Khmelnitsky, Kharkiv, and Zaporizhyia, and State housing privatization has begun in every oblast of the country. However, there has been little medium- or large-scale privatization in Ukraine.

Market-oriented reforms were introduced in 1992 and 1993 in a tentative manner. Ukrainian officials appear determined to move toward a more efficient economy without creating social upheaval, even if this includes temporary reliance on administrative planning, of the "third way." This policy has caused a decrease in industrial production in most sectors, spiralling inflation, little privatization, and overall gridlock in the economy. The former government attempted to stabilize the economy in late 1992 and early 1993. However, these attempts met with only initial success, and were soon overwhelmed by the weight of collapsing production, ruptured trade links with the former Soviet Union, and, above all, lack of the necessary political will within then-President Kravchuk's administration, the Parliament, and Cabinet of Ministers.

In September 1993 President Kravchuk directed the economic activities of the government and set privatization and combating inflation as its priorities. The newly created Economic Reform Committee contained few reformers, but President Kravchuk initiated a few reform measures, including a presidential decree on privatization of uncompleted construction sites, including the land beneath them.

The Foreign Commercial Service (FCS) provides assistance and information to U.S. companies seeking trade and investment opportunities in Ukraine. FCS has opened an American Business Centre, which offers a range of practical services, including phone, fax, and photocopying services. FCS also hosts delegations of U.S. business interests in Ukraine, and travels throughout the country cataloguing investment opportunities for U.S. business. The Commerce Office provides information to Ukrainian enterprises and helps them contact U.S. companies.

Kyiv is a major industrial centre that includes companies specializing in electronics, engineering, aviation, food and chemical production, etc. Kiev's economic development has been enriched by its advantageous location along the Dnipro River, which links Kyiv to the Black Sea.

USEFUL TIPS FOR FOREIGNERS ABOUT UKRAINE

COUNTRY DESCRIPTION - Ukraine is a newly independent nation undergoing profound political and economic change, still in the process of stabilizing its relations with neighbouring countries. Tourist facilities are not highly developed, and many of the goods and services taken for granted in other countries are not yet available. Travel within Ukraine is unrestricted. Though fuel shortages are generally no longer a problem, internal travel can be difficult and flight and train schedules can be irregular.

LANGUAGE - Ukrainian became the official language only in 1990, replacing Russian. Most of the population in eastern Ukraine and in Kyiv speak Russian as a first language, while Ukrainian is the first language in western Ukraine. Although those in the political world and the local media use both languages, official documents are now in Ukrainian. The two languages share almost the same Cyrillic alphabet, and if you arrive unfamiliar with either language a phrase book or interpreter is almost essential. Not much English is spoken here.

INTERNATIONAL TIME - Ukraine has two time zones (two hours after Greenwich Mean Time in 24 oblasts and three in the Republic of Crimea). Daylight savings time is observed from the first Sunday in April to the last Sunday in October when you will need to advance your clocks by one hour.

PUBLIC RESTROOMS - It is always a good idea to have a packet of tissues on hand, for it is a rare occasion when one finds toilet paper supplied in a public restroom. While any public restroom can be unsanitary, relatively clean toilets can be found in large department stores, restaurants and some hotels.

BUSINESS HOURS - An eight-hour day is considered a normal work day, Monday through Friday. A lunch break is taken between the hours of 1:00pm and 2:00pm. Most banks are open without breaks, Monday through Friday from 9:00am to 1:00pm.

FLOORS - In official buildings the entrance hall is considered the 'ground floor'. The next flight up takes you to the 'first floor'. This floor numbering system is the same as the European system. For the private apartments the first floor is actually the 'first'.

TIPS - Restaurant bills normally include a 5% service charge; however, you'll often find that a few extra hryvnias (10% suggested) can make your dining experience a lot more pleasurable.

WATER - Tap water in Kyiv is chemically safe but may contain elevated levels of lead from the pipes. This problem is remedied by letting the tap run for 10 seconds before collecting the water. There is also no detectable radiation in the water.

You should be aware that hot water is typically turned off for a month during the summer so the pipes can be cleaned.

RADIATION AND FOOD - Radiation is a constant concern because of the 1986 catastrophe at the Chernobyl nuclear power station some 60 miles northwest of Kyiv. The level of background radiation in Kyiv is considered safe. Kiev's food supply has been tested for radiation and thus far no elevated levels of radiation have been detected. It is suggested to avoid wild mushrooms, berries, and game, for they are considered to retain radiation.

TAILORING AND DRESSMAKING - Service varies from place to place and it is best to frequent shops or dressmakers recommended by others with similar tastes. Tailoring can be quite expensive, relative to UK / U.S. prices. The choice of fabrics available is limited but improving.

ELECTRICITY - 220 volts, 50Hz is the standard electrical voltage throughout Ukraine. To use electrical appliances you will need a converter as well as an Eastern-European plug adapter.

ALCOHOL - Throughout Ukraine alcohol is quite inexpensive and easily accessible. Ukraine is a zero tolerance country, so do not drink and drive. The fines are substantial and you are never sure what may happen in such incidences with the militia.

Ukrainian Words And Phrases
ENGLISH	TRANSLITERATION
Hello	Pryveet, Veetayuh
Good morning	Dobroho ranky
Good afternoon	Dobry dehn
Good evening	Dobry vehchir
Goodbye	Doh pobachehnyah
Yes, No	Tahk, Nee
Please	Buhd laskah
Thank you	Dyakuyuh
Excuse me	Probachteh
My name is ...	Mehneh zvuht ...
Men's restroom	Choloveechy tualeht
Women's restroom	Zheenochy tualeht
Where, when, who	Deh, koly, khtoh
How much does it cost?	Skeelky tseh Koshtuyeh?

Ukrainian Numbers
NUMBER	ENGLISH	TRANSLITERATION
1	one	oh-dyn
2	two	dvah
3	three	try
4	four	cho-ty-ry
5	five	pyaht
6	six	sheest
7	seven	seem
8	eight	vee-seem
9	nine	deh-vyat
10	ten	deh-syat
11	eleven	oh-dy-nahd-tsyat
12	twelve	dvah-nahd-tsyat
13	thirteen	try-nahd-tsyat
14	fourteen	cho-tyr-nahd-tsyat
20	twenty	dvahd-tsyat
21	twenty-one	dvahd-tsyat oh-dyn
30	thirty	tryd-tsyat
40	forty	soh-rohk
50	fifty	pyat-deh-syat
60	sixty	sheest-deh-syat
70	seventy	seem-deh-syat
80	eighty	vee-seem-deh-syat
90	ninety	deh-vya-noh-stoh
100	one hundred	stoh
200	two hunred	dwisti
1,000	one thousand	tyh-syacha
2,000	two thousands	dwi tyh-syachi

WOMEN'S SHOES
U.S.	5	6	7	8	9	10
Ukrainian	35	36	37	38	39	40

MEN'S SHOES
U.S.	7	8	9	10	11	12
Ukrainian	39	40	41	42	43	44

WOMEN'S DRESSES AND SUITS
U.S.	8	10	12	14	16
Ukrainian	40	42	44	46	48

MEN'S OVERCOATS AND SUITS
U.S.	36	38	40	42	44
Ukrainian	46	48	50	52	54

Ukrainian Official Holidays for the Year 1999
Holiday	Date
New Year's Day	January 1
Orthodox Christmas	January 7^*
Women's Day	March 8
Orthodox Easter	April 11^*
Labor Day	May 1, 2
Victory Day	May 9
Holy Trinity Day	May 30^*
Constitution Day	June 28
Independence Day	August 24

TRANSPORTATION

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION - Public transportation in Kyiv is efficient and inexpensive, but crowded. The city's network of buses, trolley buses, streetcars and the subway (Metro) covers almost the entire city. Riders should be ready to contend with a good deal of pushing and shoving during the morning and evening rush hours.

TAXIS - There are taxi stands at some busy corners in central Kyiv. Hailing a taxi can be a frustrating and time consuming experience. Many taxis often refuse fares, the main reason being the destination desired by the traveller being different than the route the taxi driver is taking. After a taxi stops, the required destination should be stated; if the driver agrees, a price should be negotiated before entering the vehicle. Extra precaution should be taken in the evenings, when it is advisable to use only a clearly marked taxi rather than a private vehicle.

DRIVING - Roads in Ukraine are in generally poor condition. Travel between cities at night and in the winter can be particularly treacherous. Gasoline and diesel fuel supplies may be difficult to find in outlying areas. Carjacking of Western-made or foreign- registered cars is on the rise. There has been an increase in the number of documented reports of criminal acts occurring on trains, including gassings and robberies.

Traffic regulations and procedures in Ukraine differ significantly from those in the UK / U.S. and drivers new to Ukraine should be aware of these rules and procedures. A valid international driver's license is all that is necessary to drive in Ukraine.

Spare parts for American cars are difficult to locate in Kyiv. Spare parts for standard European models and some Japanese models, when available, are priced substantially higher than in the U.S. This may change as more car dealerships open in Kyiv. There is at present a Ford dealership, and Toyota and Mazda have recently opened service stations here. Spare parts for the Ukrainian "Zaporozhets" and the Russian "Lada" are generally available.

Winters in Ukraine are dark and cold with sheets of ice common along the city streets. Front-wheel-drive or four-wheel-drive vehicles provide the best handling, as only the main streets of Kyiv are plowed regularly.

For vehicles that use diesel fuel, a note stating "diesel only" should be attached to the ignition key. Diesel is available locally, but is not of high quality. Additives must be added to diesel fuel in winter. Unleaded fuel is only available at certain stations in Kyiv. Catalytic converters may be removed from vehicles that are brought in from the states.

As of late 1994, the Ukrainian government did not require that cars be covered by third-party liability insurance. But many U.S. citizens, however have chosen to purchase such policies. Insurance is available through a number of local companies such as Ometa Inster, which insures both official and private vehicles against theft, accidents and provides third-party insurance. The annual fee is approximately 6% of the value of the automobile and payment is in local currency.

Although the road system in Ukraine provides access to all cities, towns, and most villages, most are in deplorable condition. The traveller must plan trips carefully since information, food, lodging, and fuel are often not available along the highways. One should always travel with food, water and ample fuel necessary to arrive at the planned destination.

Kyiv has two airports: BORISPIL airport serves both international and domestic flights and KYIV (ZHULIANY) serves domestic flights only.

BORISPIL airport is located 24 miles from Kyiv. Travellers can take either a taxi or rental car to the air port, but should plan at least 40 minutes to get there from the centre of Kyiv. The trip from Borispil by rental sedan costs $15, by rental van $20, and by taxi-no more than $30. Negotiate on a price before taking the taxi. There is a taxi service at the airport. Travellers can also order rental cars by dialling 220-6729. Cars usually arrive within 30 minutes.

4. Customs. Complete your customs declaration accurately. Declare all money, travellers' checks, and valuables in your possession. Include all personal jewellery, such as wedding rings and watches. It is advised, however, not to bring such valuables to avoid complications. Customs forms are available at point of entry. Have your customs declaration stamped by the authorities and keep it with you until you leave the country. Keep your exchange receipts in order to account for your expenditures. Without these records, customs officials could confiscate your cash and valuables upon departure.

DEPARTURE PROCEDURES

All passengers should arrive at the airport at least two hours before flight takeoff. Passengers must go through several checkpoints:

1. CUSTOMS
2. FLIGHT REGISTRATION: this checkpoint closes one hour before flight departure.

EVERYTHING YOU ALWAYS WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT TRAIN TRAVEL IN UKRAINE

Much domestic travel in Ukraine is best accomplished by train, almost all of it overnight. Trains are cheap, usually punctual and rarely break down. Inter-city cars do not have seats -- they have beds on which you sit during the evening and morning and on which you sleep at night. Intercity trains have seats, but are rarely used by Embassy personnel.

Train cars are divided into four classes. First-class cars ("SV" pronounced as "es veh" - spalny vahon, or sleeper) are best, with two persons to a compartment, working reading lamps, nicer bedding, extra mirrors, less-worn carpeting and a less raucous ambiance. Certain East German models of first-class trains have three-person compartments, with the middle bunk folding down for sleeping and folding away during the daytime. Some of these wagons also have sinks with running water in the individual compartments! Second-class cars (kupe) feature four-person compartments and provide similar, but shabbier, accommodation. Third-class cars (platz-kartny) have no separations between sleeping bunks, are frequently very dirty, smelly, and noisy. Fourth-class cars (zahalny vahon) available only on some routes, offer only seating space.

Your ticket will specify the class of travel, the originating city and the destination, the number of the train and the number of the car. This is important to pass on if you have someone meeting you.

At Kiev's train station, look for the platform number to be posted on the big departure board in the main hall and listen for announcements in case of last-minute changes. If you don't have much experience on trains, allow about 15 minutes at the station to find the platform and car to which you are assigned. Show your ticket (and if necessary, passport) to the conductor at the foot of the stairs of your car and climb aboard! Persons carrying bags are permitted to board the trains and will usually be given enough notice to leave the train before it moves away.

SAFETY TIPS

1. LOCK THE BOLT NEAR THE HANDLE AND, IF AVAILABLE, LOWER THE METAL FLAP that helps ensure that your door cannot be opened from the outside. Some passengers force a hanger into the lock to prevent any entry. Others tie a string or belt around the handle and the opposite clothes hook. Sleep with your valuables either in a pouch that you wear inside your clothes, in a pouch or small pack under your pillow, or in another place where someone cannot reach them without disturbing you. Try not to carry lots of cash. If you must, keep it separate and secure.

2. SOLO TRAVEL IS A CONTROVERSIAL ISSUE. The Embassy almost always provides its staff with completely private accommodations -- either first- or second-class. Train conductors and anyone else who wishes to find out will learn that you, a foreigner, are in the compartment all alone. The Embassy has documented several cases of passengers being gassed in compartments, usually when they were solo. If you feel up to exchanging some privacy for possibly increased safety and definitely increased socializing, consider travelling in four-person compartments where you are sure to have the company of natives. Follow the rules of train etiquette if you are with others: bring something to eat and drink to share, wear as nearly as possible what you plan to sleep in, exit the compartment when passengers of the opposite sex start preparing for bed, and come to a consensus on having the window and door open or closed during the night and how loud you want the radio, if it's been turned on. Windows are either sealed shut permanently or opened with a special key kept by the conductor. A simple request to have her unlock the window is usually all it takes to open it, although you may be in for a lecture about the hazards of drafts.

TRAIN PROCEDURES

1. Shortly after departure, the conductor will appear in your compartment to take your ticket for the night. She (most often, although increasingly men are breaking through this job barrier) is the one who scrutinized you and your ticket as you boarded. The conductor then collects money for the sheets. Each set of sheets, which also includes a small towel, costs less than $2.50. If you are alone and the conductor demands money for all the beds in your compartment, don't waste your breath pointing out that you'll only be sleeping on one -- just pay for all of them. Try to give exact change, or graciously tell the conductor to keep the change. Make your own bed unless you're lucky enough to be in a first-class compartment where this service has already been provided. If you don't find a blanket in your compartment, ask for one. In winter, trains often become very warm over the course of a night, but initially may be chilly. In some trains, the conductor returns in about an hour to offer tea, available for pennies.

2. HYGIENE: Toilet facilities sometimes leave much to be desired, so consider visiting a restroom before boarding. Often the sinks do not have running water. Bring toilet paper, Kleenex, water and moist towelettes.

3. MORNING WAKE-UP: The conductor will usually knock on your door with that special window key a good hour before arrival. She wants to be sure to give you plenty of time to rise and shine, to drink tea if it's available and to fold up your blanket and return the sheets to her in her compartment by the toilet.

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